Fears and Andrew Morgan Collaborate on the Distinctive Brunswick Jump Hour Ultimus

A New Direction for Fears

In the world of watch collaborations, some pairings seem obvious from the start. Others, however, take a more unexpected turn, leaving enthusiasts intrigued and eager to see the outcome. The latest partnership between Fears and Andrew Morgan, a well-known figure in the industry, falls into the latter category. Together, they have crafted a version of the Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour that deviates significantly from the brand's usual restrained aesthetic.

The result, named the Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour Ultimus, presents a futuristic twist on a beloved classic. It retains the iconic cushion-shaped case that has become synonymous with Fears but introduces a dial that is bold, modern, and undeniably eye-catching.

The Brunswick Legacy Reimagined

The Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour has already established itself as a signature piece for the Bristol-based manufacturer. Its origins trace back to the Alliance 01, a collaborative effort with Christopher Ward, which combined the classic Brunswick case with an innovative jumping hour complication. Instead of a traditional hour hand, the hours are displayed through a window at 12 o'clock, while a single minute hand circles the dial. This mechanical marvel requires precise engineering to ensure the hour disc advances cleanly every 60 minutes, adding a layer of complexity that goes beyond a simple hand addition.

The Ultimus takes this established formula and amplifies its contemporary appeal, moving away from the understated silver, plum, or blue dials of previous models. Instead, it embraces a design philosophy centered on visibility and contrast, making the jumping hour display the undeniable focal point. This is a watch designed to be noticed, a departure from the quiet sophistication typically associated with Fears.

Mechanical Excellence

At the heart of the Ultimus lies the Sellita SW200 automatic movement, enhanced with the Christopher Ward JJ01 jump hour module. This combination was initially developed for the Alliance 01 and has since become integral to the Brunswick Jump Hour series. While the SW200 is a reliable workhorse, the addition of the JJ01 module transforms it into something far more intriguing, offering a semi-digital appearance without sacrificing traditional mechanical charm. Fears also regulates the movement to chronometer-grade accuracy, appealing to purists who value precision.

This approach demonstrates that a bespoke movement isn't always necessary to create a captivating timepiece. Sometimes, innovation comes from cleverly adapting proven technology.

The Andrew Morgan Influence

Andrew Morgan's involvement adds another layer of fascination to this project. Known to British watch enthusiasts as a former presenter at Watchfinder and now the founder of his own venture, Morgan has always championed watches that offer something different, particularly at accessible price points. His collaboration with Fears feels like a natural meeting of minds, as both share an appreciation for unconventional design.

The Brunswick Jump Hour has always occupied an intriguing niche, neither a conventional dress watch nor a sports model. The Ultimus amplifies this uniqueness, and the online reaction has been predictably divided—some praise its boldness, while others remain unconvinced. In the world of watchmaking, sparking debate is often a sign of success.

Specifications at a Glance

Case: 40.5mm stainless steel cushion-shaped
Lug-to-lug: Approximately 47mm
Lug width: 20mm
Crystal: Domed sapphire with anti-reflective coating
Water resistance: 100 metres
Movement: Sellita SW200 automatic with JJ01 jump hour module
Power reserve: Approximately 38 hours
Functions: Jumping hours and minutes
Display: Jumping hour aperture at 12 o'clock, central minute hand
Strap: Fears-supplied
Production: Limited collaboration edition
Price: £4,450

A Glimpse into Fears' Future

The significance of the Ultimus lies not in its specifications alone—those have been seen before—but in the direction it signals for Fears. The brand has spent years building a reputation on classic British watchmaking, drawing inspiration from its 1920s heritage. The Brunswick itself is a testament to this approach. However, the Ultimus shows a willingness to step outside that comfort zone, embracing a more modern and daring aesthetic.

At £4,450, the Ultimus competes in a crowded market, particularly against independent brands offering unique complications. Yet Fears distinguishes itself through its genuine historical roots and hand-built British craftsmanship. Whether the Ultimus is beautiful depends on personal taste, but its interest is undeniable.

Final Thoughts

The Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour Ultimus is a bold statement, a collaboration that pushes the boundaries of what a traditional British watch can be. It challenges conventions and invites debate, which is precisely what both Fears and Andrew Morgan intended. For those willing to embrace its distinctive character, it offers a mechanical experience that stands out in a sea of conformity.