Breguet Classique Tourbillon 7357: A

Introduction

Breguet has been systematically refreshing its long-standing models, and the Classique Tourbillon 7357 is a prime example. This watch marks the long-awaited evolution of the 3350/3357, which debuted in 1989. With both exterior and interior upgrades, the 7357 serves as the new entry point into Breguet's tourbillon collection while showcasing a more sophisticated level of haute horlogerie.

First Impressions

Essentially an upgraded 3357, the 7357 improves upon nearly every aspect. Even as a prototype, the enhanced finishing, materials, and construction are evident. The decoration has been elevated, particularly visible on the front with a refined tourbillon bridge. The movement, based on the Lemania cal. 387, now offers a longer power reserve and a non-magnetic hairspring.

The 7357 adopts a new look that remains unmistakably Breguet, moving away from the traditional narrow straight lugs to a 1950s-style case with curved integrated lugs. Arabic numerals replace the usual Romans, yet the design stays quintessentially Breguet.

Design and Case

The 7357 is offered in platinum or Breguet gold, the brand's proprietary yellow gold alloy. The platinum version, with its grey and blue palette, appears more contemporary—perhaps too modern for classic Breguet tastes. In contrast, the Breguet gold model is my preferred choice, exuding timeless charm.

The case measures a compact 35mm in diameter and just 9.2mm in height, giving it a vintage feel. It features the trademark fluting on the caseband, a domed bezel and back, and hand-soldered curved lugs. The size ensures the dial and movement fill the case perfectly, a detail not always found in modern watches.

Dial Details

The solid gold dial is engine-turned with multiple guilloché patterns, requiring both rose and straight-line engines. The Arabic Breguet numerals offer a refreshing departure from the usual Roman numerals. The tourbillon at six o'clock is the focal point, now with an open-worked bridge that is more refined and proportional. The redesigned cage is simpler in form but equally well-finished.

Movement and Performance

The cal. 187B is derived from the Lemania cal. 387 (Breguet cal. 558) but has been extensively reworked. The power reserve has increased by about 50% to 60 hours, and it now features a silicon pallet lever and Nivachron hairspring for enhanced magnetism resistance. However, these upgrades are within the original architecture, suggesting this may be the final evolution of this calibre.

The decorative upgrades are equally impressive. The back features engine-turned full plate, and the tourbillon bridge is modelled after 20th-century observatory pocket watches. Fine details include polished pins and colour-matched screws. The movement is competitive with offerings from Vacheron Constantin, though not quite artisanal, likely due to the dated construction.

Key Facts and Price

References: 7357PT/1A/386 (platinum), 7357BH/1H/386 (Breguet gold)
Diameter: 35 mm
Height: 9.2 mm
Material: 18k Breguet gold or platinum
Water resistance: 30 m
Movement: Cal. 187B, manual wind
Frequency: 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 60 hours
Strap: Calfskin with folding clasp
Price: CHF 140,000 (gold), CHF 154,000 (platinum)

Buying Tips

When considering the Breguet Classique Tourbillon 7357, verify the authenticity of the movement and case hallmarks. Ensure the guilloché dial is crisp and the tourbillon operates smoothly. Purchase from authorized dealers or reputable sources to guarantee provenance.