Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2TV: A

Introducing the Chronomètre FB 2TV

Ferdinand Berthoud (FB), the independent watchmaker revived under Chopard Co-President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, has unveiled the Chronomètre FB 2TV.1, the inaugural model of its new Mesure du Temps 1787 collection. This timepiece evolves the brand's signature chain-and-fusee architecture, introducing a zero-reset seconds function and a flying tourbillon, all while inverting the movement to display its key functional elements on the dial side.

As FB embarks on its second decade, the FB 2TV signals a more mechanically expressive direction. The inverted layout is not new—other independents like Kari Voutilainen have proven its appeal—but FB's execution brings a unique blend of historical inspiration and modern sophistication.

Design Philosophy: Form Follows Function

Ferdinand Berthoud, the 18th-century horological pioneer, approached watchmaking as a scientist, prioritizing function over form. His early marine clocks often resembled miniature dashboards rather than conventional dials. The contemporary FB brand embraces this ethos, resulting in the FB 2TV's component-forward aesthetic.

The dial prominently displays the chain and fusee, the flying tourbillon (a first for the brand), and an oversized cone-and-feeler system for the power reserve indicator. At full wind, the cone nearly touches the surrounding bridge. The power reserve indicator, with its hand and scale, appears almost as an afterthought, squeezed next to the tourbillon. These quirky details may seem odd, but they reinforce the connection to Berthoud's era, where experimentation was celebrated.

The Chain and Fusee: A Masterclass in Precision

Since its relaunch in 2016, FB has championed the chain and fusee for delivering constant torque to the escapement. This complex device, common in Berthoud's day, often contains as many components as the rest of the movement. The FB 2TV's chain comprises 465 stamped links and 311 pins, measuring 279 mm—nearly double the length of A. Lange & Söhne's Pour le Mérite chain.

Like Lange's pioneering 1994 design, the FB 2TV uses a differential system for maintaining power, which allows energy to flow to the escapement even during winding. This mechanism enhances the tactile winding experience, offering richer feedback than typical movements. FB has also improved efficiency, requiring ten fewer crown turns to fully wind compared to earlier models.

Flying Tourbillon: A New Frontier

The flying tourbillon is a significant addition to FB's repertoire. Its dial-side placement not only aids commercial appeal but also showcases the meticulous craftsmanship. The three-armed cage houses a massive 11.2 mm free-sprung balance wheel with an overcoil hairspring. The cage's terraced design accommodates the overcoil's height, a detail seen in historical tourbillons, enhancing its elegance.

Mounted on a modular plate, the tourbillon assembly can be easily removed. The plate, hand-frosted German silver, provides a radiant backdrop, ensuring the tourbillon stands out—a contrast many tourbillons lack. Every FB 2TV undergoes COSC certification, echoing Berthoud's relentless pursuit of precision.

Zero-Reset Seconds: Interactive Precision

A small instrument-like dial at the top features FB's signature typeface and hands. Its matte white finish and engraved, lacquered markings ensure legibility despite its size. This configuration recalls Berthoud's Montre Astronomique No.3, which inspired the Naissance d'une Montre 3. Both watches feature central seconds hands, but the FB 2TV adds a pusher in the crown to reset the seconds hand to zero, enabling precise time-setting or timing intervals up to 60 seconds—hence the 'Mesure du Temps' moniker.

The reset mechanism, visible through the case back, includes a scythe-like hammer and open-worked snail cam, both black-polished steel, surrounded by a large ring gear for setting the hands.

Case and Wearability

The 44 mm round case, similar to the FB 2RE, is 15.46 mm thick. Its steampunk aesthetic features bolted lugs and screwed crown guards, beautifully executed with the brand's signature engravings. However, it lacks the side observation windows of predecessors, which offered views of the chain and fusee. With the inverted movement, these windows are redundant, but their absence is felt, as they date back to Berthoud himself.

Currently offered in Fairmined 18k white gold, ethically sourced, the FB 2TV is substantial on the wrist, befitting its stature.

Exceptional Finishing

FB's reputation for excellence is evident in the FB 2TV's finishing. The German silver dial plate is hand-sandblasted for a frosted glow, bordered with precise bevels. The steelwork atop the fusee cone is expertly crafted. The case back reveals a less dramatic but equally intricate view, with a haphazard bridge configuration and unique details like circular jewels for the ring gear and a quartet of jewels for the central seconds gear train.

All visible jewels are set in gold chatons, complemented by radial bridge cambers and crisp internal angles. While the movement architecture may not be as cohesive as some, the execution is top-tier.

In summary, the Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2TV is a bold statement of independent watchmaking, blending historical inspiration with modern innovation. Its inverted movement, flying tourbillon, and interactive seconds reset make it a compelling addition to the brand's collection, appealing to collectors who appreciate mechanical complexity and distinctive design.