Pim Koeslag on Time, Creativity, and the Soul of Watchmaking

Introduction: A Deeper Look at Watchmaking's Human Side

In the world of high-end horology, it's easy to get lost in specs and finishes. But behind every great watch is a person with a unique story. USASHOP Watches brings you a conversation with Pim Koeslag, the driving force behind Christiaan van der Klaauw, a brand renowned for its astronomical complications. Here, Koeslag opens up about his personal connection to time, the mentors who shaped his vision, and what he believes truly matters in watchmaking.

The Timepiece That Changed His Perspective

Koeslag's journey took a pivotal turn when he encountered the Planetarium. Before joining CVDK, his focus was on traditional complications like perpetual calendars and tourbillons. The Planetarium revealed the poetic and functional possibilities of merging watchmaking with astronomy, opening a new realm of creativity.

What He Values Most in a Watch

For Koeslag, creativity is paramount—whether technical or aesthetic. He finds little interest in replicating what others have done. Flawless execution is a given, but true distinction comes from innovation.

Favorite Complications: From Solar Systems to Chimes

His favorite existing complication is the Grand Planetarium Eccentric, a stunning full-dial representation of our solar system. Yet, his ultimate favorite is still in development. He also holds a deep appreciation for chiming watches, describing minute repeaters and grand sonneries as magical.

Overrated Trends and Signs of Quality

Koeslag is critical of the proliferation of overpriced three-hand watches, noting a new brand seems to appear weekly. When assessing craftsmanship, he looks first at the dial's finishing—a telltale sign of care and precision.

Pivotal Moments and Industry Challenges

He credits the quartz crisis of the 1970s for redefining watchmaking as an art rather than a mere tool. Today, he sees the shift toward direct-to-consumer sales via social media as a significant challenge, emphasizing the need for region-specific strategies to maintain meaningful connections with buyers.

Inspiration Beyond Horology

Koeslag draws inspiration from mechanics in other fields, such as automotive and medical industries, as well as astronomy. These external influences fuel his innovative approach to watch design.

Dream Creations and Personal Treasures

He wishes he had created the Royal Oak, praising its timeless design akin to the Porsche 911. In private, he wears a Franck Muller Curvex Chronograph—a gift from a dear colleague who passed away. This watch holds immense sentimental value, reminding him of shared moments and conversations over wine.

The Influence of Gérald Genta

Koeslag recalls a memorable dinner with Gérald Genta in Monaco, where they discussed designs and complications. Genta encouraged him to think bigger, advising that selling an idea to a major brand could lead to greater success. This wisdom, though difficult at the time, proved invaluable.

Advice for Young Collectors

His final advice is simple: trust your own instincts rather than following trends. Uniqueness is priceless, and a watch should resonate personally, not just impress others.