A. Lange & Söhne CEO Wilhelm Schmid on Time, Craft, and the Future of Watchmaking

An Intimate Conversation with Wilhelm Schmid

In the world of haute horlogerie, few names carry as much weight as A. Lange & Söhne. The brand's revival in 1994 marked a turning point for German watchmaking, and at its helm stands Wilhelm Schmid, a leader who blends business acumen with a deep appreciation for the craft. In this exclusive interview with USASHOP Watches, Schmid opens up about his personal relationship with time, the watches that shaped his perspective, and the future of the industry.

The Watch That Changed Everything

When asked which timepiece altered his view of watchmaking, Schmid recalls the debut of the first four Lange watches in 1994. 'The Lange 1 was unlike anything that had ever existed before,' he says. 'It was a watch I found absolutely fascinating, but I couldn't afford it then. I didn't buy one until about ten years later.' This admiration for the Lange 1 remains undiminished, as he later admits it is the watch he wishes he had created.

What Makes a Watch Truly Exceptional?

For Schmid, the most valued quality in a watch is legibility, which arises from a harmonious blend of design and function. 'A watch should also evoke a certain feeling,' he adds. 'It should bring me a little joy every time I look at my wrist.' This philosophy is evident in his favorite complication: the chronograph. 'There's always something happening on the dial,' he explains. 'Unlike a perpetual calendar that only changes at midnight, a chronograph is interactive and immediate—it makes a watch truly exciting.'

Overrated Trends and Careful Craftsmanship

Schmid is critical of the industry's obsession with case size. 'There is too much emphasis on size and not enough on whether the watch suits one's wrist and personality,' he asserts. When it comes to craftsmanship, he offers a simple test: 'Turn the watch around. If the movement fits the case, the fundamentals are right. Ideally, the hidden parts should be finished too.'

The Quartz Crisis and Its Legacy

Reflecting on the most pivotal moment in watchmaking history, Schmid points to the quartz crisis. 'Until then, accuracy was tied to price,' he says. 'Quartz changed that, making mechanical watches more of an expression of personality than a tool.' This shift, he believes, paved the way for the emotional connection we have with watches today.

Challenges Facing the Industry

Schmid identifies three key challenges for A. Lange & Söhne: connecting with customers worldwide, maintaining the brand's discreet allure, and engaging the next generation. 'Eighty percent of our employees live in Glashütte, but our customers are everywhere,' he notes. 'We've expanded our boutiques to offer immersive experiences. We also need to remain a secret brand while sharing that secret with the right people, and we must earn the appreciation of younger buyers.'

Inspiration Beyond Watchmaking

A self-proclaimed 'petrolhead,' Schmid draws inspiration from classic cars. 'When we look at historic automobiles, we can't help but smile and say, 'Wow, they're beautiful,' even though we know they're unsafe,' he says. 'Timeless beauty still sparks passion today.'

Advice for Young Collectors

His advice is straightforward: 'Only buy what you really want. If you can't afford it now, wait. Don't settle for second best.'

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About A. Lange & Söhne

A. Lange & Söhne, founded in 1845 in Glashütte, Germany, is renowned for its meticulous craftsmanship and iconic designs like the Lange 1 and the Odysseus Chronograph. Under Schmid's leadership, the brand continues to blend tradition with innovation.