Manuel Emch on Time, Craft, and the Future of Watchmaking

Introduction

In the world of horology, few names carry as much weight as Manuel Emch. As the man behind Louis Erard, a co-founder of Kollokium, and a respected industry consultant, Emch has spent decades shaping the way we perceive timepieces. In this exclusive interview, he opens up about his personal journey, the watches that defined his career, and his vision for the future of watchmaking.

The Watch That Changed Everything

When asked which timepiece altered his perspective on watchmaking, Emch points to the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1. He credits not just the watch itself, but the visionary thinking of Günter Blümlein, whose masterful approach to movement architecture, design, and time display left an indelible mark. 'The Lange 1 taught me that true innovation comes from rethinking everything with coherence and purpose,' Emch reflects.

Character Over Specifications

For Emch, the most valuable quality in a watch is character. 'A watch should have a personality before it has specifications,' he asserts. If a timepiece can be recognized across a room without reading the logo, then the designer has succeeded. This philosophy is evident in his own creations, which often feature unconventional dials and bold aesthetics.

Favorite Complications and Design Philosophy

Surprisingly, Emch admits he doesn't have a favorite complication, preferring simple time-only watches. However, he is drawn to displays that decentralize time, such as the Grande Seconde or a regulator. His first creation, the Grande Seconde at Jaquet Droz, reflects this preference, showcasing how a small complication can completely transform a watch's personality.

Overrated Trends in Modern Watchmaking

Emch is critical of artificial scarcity as a marketing strategy. He believes limited editions should celebrate creativity and craftsmanship, not compensate for a lack of ideas. He also emphasizes that collaborations, like those he's known for, must stem from genuine friendship and mutual respect to create something truly new.

The Hallmark of a Carefully Made Watch

For Emch, the dial is where a watch's care is most evident. 'It's the face of the watch and where emotion begins,' he says. Obsessive attention to proportions, depth, textures, typography, and finishing are immediate indicators of a well-crafted timepiece.

The Quartz Crisis and Its Legacy

Emch identifies the Quartz Crisis as the most pivotal moment in watchmaking history. Ironically, it saved mechanical watches by forcing the industry to rediscover their value—not as precision instruments, but as embodiments of craftsmanship, emotion, and culture.

Challenges Facing the Industry Today

The greatest challenge, according to Emch, is remaining culturally relevant. Young collectors seek authenticity and meaning, not status symbols. Brands that fail to create culture while selling heritage risk becoming obsolete.

Sources of Inspiration

Contemporary art, architecture, and industrial design heavily influence Emch's thinking. He believes watches should participate in today's culture, not merely celebrate past achievements.

The Watch He Wishes He Had Created

Emch names the Cartier Crash as the watch he wishes he had created, praising its rule-breaking design and undeniable elegance. It proved that a watch can transcend function and become a cultural object.

Daily Wear and Personal Favorites

With over a hundred watches, Emch rotates through his collection, often alternating between the Louis Erard × Alain Silberstein Tourbillon and the Kollokium Projekt 02 Variant C. He describes the Louis Erard Tourbillon as an everyday tourbillon, designed to be worn, not stored. The Kollokium represents his experimental side, challenging conventions through design and materials.

Influential Figures

Emch credits Nicolas G. Hayek as the most influential figure in his career. Hayek understood that watches are stories, emotions, and people, teaching a generation that courage and vision matter more than market research.

Advice for Young Collectors

His final advice is simple: 'Buy the watch that still excites you six months after you first discovered it, not the one everyone else tells you to buy.' He encourages collectors to develop their taste and avoid hype, focusing instead on curiosity.