Rolex Oyster 100th Anniversary Exhibition: A Comprehensive Guide

Rolex Oyster 100th Anniversary Exhibition: A Comprehensive Recap

In June 2026, Rolex hosted the “Oyster Legend” exhibition at the West Bund Dome Art Center in Shanghai, celebrating the 100th anniversary of the Oyster case. For those who couldn't attend, this article provides an in-depth virtual tour, covering the key new releases, the technical evolution of the Oyster case, and the diverse range of watches that carry the Oyster name.

The 2026 Anniversary Models

To mark the centenary, Rolex introduced two special Oyster Perpetual models at the Geneva watch fair earlier in the year.

Oyster Perpetual 100th Anniversary Two-Tone

This model reintroduces the two-tone (Rolesor) option to the Oyster Perpetual line for men's watches. The watch features a slate gray dial with a special “100” marker replacing the usual crown logo at 6 o'clock, and a precious metal smooth bezel. It's a striking return to a classic aesthetic.

Oyster Perpetual Celebration Dial

The second anniversary piece features a colorful “celebration” pattern dial, officially named the “commemorative pattern.” Unlike earlier laser-engraved metal dials, this one uses a vibrant lacquer finish, offering a playful yet organized look that stands out in the Oyster Perpetual lineup.

Both models are highly sought after and likely to be scarce in 2026, so prospective buyers should monitor the market closely.

What Makes an Oyster an Oyster?

The term “Oyster” refers to Rolex's pioneering waterproof and dustproof case design, inspired by the oyster's ability to survive underwater. Introduced in 1926, the Oyster case features a screw-down case back and crown, ensuring exceptional protection. “Perpetual” refers to the self-winding mechanism, a hallmark of Rolex automatics.

This robust case architecture underpins nearly every Rolex collection, from the Submariner for diving to the GMT-Master for pilots and the Cosmograph Daytona for racers.

Exploring the Exhibition: Key Collections

Oyster Perpetual

The Oyster Perpetual is the purest expression of the Oyster concept, with no specialized function beyond being a reliable, waterproof dress watch. It has remained true to the 1926 original while incorporating modern upgrades like the Perpetual rotor and chronometer certification.

Submariner and Dive Watches

The Submariner, introduced in 1953, initially offered 100m water resistance, later increased to 300m in 1989. It features a rotatable bezel for dive timing, a triple-lock crown, and an extension system for wearing over a wetsuit. Rolex also showcased deeper divers like the Sea-Dweller (1,200m), Deepsea (3,900m), and the extreme Deepsea Challenge (11,000m), the latter equipped with a helium escape valve for saturation diving.

GMT-Master II

Born for aviation, the GMT-Master II helps pilots track a second time zone. Its bidirectional rotatable bezel, often in two-tone ceramic, indicates day/night, and the 24-hour hand allows quick adjustment. The dual-color ceramic bezel is exclusive to the GMT line.

Yacht-Master

Designed for sailing, the Yacht-Master offers a more luxurious take on the diver, using precious metals like platinum or gold, and featuring jeweled bezels. The Yacht-Master II, updated in 2026, features a 10-minute countdown function displayed on the inner flange, with a central countdown hand that moves counterclockwise—ideal for race starts.

Explorer and Explorer II

Inspired by expeditions, the Explorer is built for adventurers. The Explorer I is known for its luminescent 3-6-9 numerals and triangle marker, while the Explorer II adds a fixed 24-hour bezel and an orange hand to distinguish day/night for cave explorers.

Cosmograph Daytona

Introduced in 1963 for motorsport, the Daytona is a pure chronograph without a date. Its tachymetric scale is engraved on the bezel, and modern versions feature a metal frame to protect the ceramic bezel. High-value variants include the Le Mans, Ice Blue, and the latest enamel-dial hidden gem, showcasing traditional Swiss craftsmanship.

Sky-Dweller

The Sky-Dweller (2012) is Rolex's most complex watch, featuring an annual calendar and dual time zone. Its innovative bezel-operated adjustment system makes setting the calendar remarkably easy, avoiding the need for pushers or styluses.

Milgauss and Air-King

The Milgauss, designed for scientists, offers resistance to magnetic fields up to 1,000 gauss, with its signature lightning bolt second hand and green crystal. Discontinued in 2023, it remains a favorite. The Air-King, also antimagnetic, serves pilots by shielding the movement from electromagnetic interference.

Datejust and Day-Date

The Datejust (1945) introduced the date window at 3 o'clock, later adding the Cyclops magnifier. The Day-Date, introduced later, adds the day display and is exclusively crafted in precious metals, earning the nickname “President's watch.” Both are celebrated for their special dials, including diamond, mother-of-pearl, meteorite, and turquoise.

Land-Dweller

The Land-Dweller represents Rolex's latest achievement: a slim Oyster case at just 9.7mm. This thinness is achieved through innovations like the dynamic pulse escapement and silicon hairspring, making it a versatile luxury sports watch suitable for both formal and casual wear.

The Evolution of the Oyster Case

Over the past century, the Oyster case has undergone significant upgrades:

Water resistance: Enhanced through multiple gaskets and improved crown systems.
Crystal: From acrylic to scratch-resistant sapphire.
Bezel materials: From resin to aluminum, now ceramic for durability.
Lugs: Drilled lugs replaced by solid, closed designs.
Bracelets: Hollow links replaced by solid links, with easy-link adjustment systems.
Case back: The original “bubble back” gave way to flat case backs.

The Perpetual Movement and Modern Innovations

Rolex's self-winding “Perpetual” movement has evolved with advanced materials. While many men's watches use the blue Parachrom hairspring (niobium-zirconium alloy), silicon hairsprings are now used in women's models, the Land-Dweller, and the 1908, enabling super-slim designs and achieving chronometer accuracy of -2/+2 seconds per day. In 2026, Rolex upgraded all movements to resist magnetic fields up to 15,000 gauss, matching competitors like Omega.

Rolex: The Watch for Everyone

The exhibition's second floor featured portraits of 100 notable Rolex wearers, from athletes like Roger Federer and Tiger Woods to pianist Yuja Wang and scientists like Liu Shaochuang. This diversity underscores Rolex's universal appeal: it's not about extreme complications but about reliability, durability, and versatility. Whether you're diving, flying, racing, or attending a board meeting, there's a Rolex for you.

As the saying goes, when in doubt, choose a Rolex. Its balanced design and robust construction make it the ultimate all-rounder in luxury watches.