Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar: A Modern Classic

Introduction

The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar is a striking addition to the brand's lineup, bridging its historical biretrograde calendar complications with the bold Excalibur design language that has defined the house since the mid-2000s. This new model, limited to just 188 pieces, showcases the brand's commitment to haute horlogerie with a lavishly layered dial and a revised, more robust perpetual calendar module.

Design and Dial

The watch is unmistakably Roger Dubuis. The dial features four large inlays of "Astral Blue" mother-of-pearl on the flange, day and date scales, month disc, and moon phase indicator. The subtle blue hue complements the prominent gold markings, though the mother-of-pearl's true beauty emerges in the moon phase indicator, where a laser-engraved 18k pink gold moon sits against a backdrop of aventurine glass, resembling a storm cloud over a night sky.

The exposed snail cams for the day and date displays are meticulously finished, with jewelled bearings and polished bevels on the bridges, marking a significant improvement over earlier biretrograde mechanisms. The Geneva Seal hallmark is proudly displayed above the moon phase aperture, reflecting the brand's dedication to traditional finishing standards.

Case and Wearability

The substantial 18k pink gold case has been downsized to 40mm, yet it retains its character and 100m water resistance. The controversial third lug design is a signature element, but it means the watch uses proprietary straps, which are easily swapped via Roger Dubuis's quick-change system. The case is thoughtfully detailed with a deeply engraved crown and four correctors for the calendar and moon phase, symmetrically placed on the sides.

Movement and Performance

Inside beats the new Calibre RD850, an automatic movement with a 60-hour power reserve, thanks to a diamond-coated silicon escape wheel. The movement follows a traditional gear train layout, placing the fourth wheel at six o'clock, a nod to older designs. It is finished to an industrial-haute horlogerie standard, with machine-engraved text and polished details that rival competitors like Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin.

The perpetual calendar module operates on traditional principles, with a "grand lever" mechanism and push-pin correctors. Setting the calendar requires a specific sequence: adjust the date and day to the previous day, then advance via the hands. As with most perpetual calendars, avoid adjusting during the 8PM–1AM dead zone to prevent damage.

Key Facts and Price

Reference: DBEX1178
Diameter: 40mm
Height: 12.25mm
Material: 18k pink gold
Water Resistance: 100m
Movement: Calibre RD850, automatic
Power Reserve: 60 hours
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, perpetual calendar with retrograde day and date, moon phase
Limited Edition: 188 pieces
Price: US9,000 (excl. taxes)

Buying Tips and Authenticity

Given its limited production, the Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar is a collector's piece. When purchasing, ensure the watch comes with its original certificate and box, and verify the serial number with Roger Dubuis. Be cautious of replicas; authentic models will have impeccable finishing and the Geneva Seal. The watch is available exclusively at Roger Dubuis boutiques, so buying from an authorized dealer is recommended.

Conclusion

The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar is a bold statement that appeals to those who appreciate traditional watchmaking but desire a contemporary, flamboyant design. Its blend of high-end materials, innovative mechanics, and limited availability makes it a compelling choice for discerning collectors.