Moritz Grossmann Tefnut 36 Turquoise Blue: A 200th Anniversary Tribute

Celebrating Carl Moritz Grossmann's Legacy

Moritz Grossmann, the renowned German watchmaker, continues its founder's 200th anniversary celebrations with a new addition to the Tefnut line. This time, the spotlight falls on a more compact 36mm case, adorned with a dial crafted using the traditional technique of silver-plating by friction, highlighted with striking turquoise accents.

Carl Moritz Grossmann (1826-1885) was a pivotal figure in the rise of Glashütte as a watchmaking hub. Encouraged by his friend Ferdinand Adolph Lange, he established a workshop in the town, gaining renown for his precision instruments and contributions to horological education. The brand was revived in 2008 under Christine Hutter, focusing on high-end, technically rich Saxon watchmaking with a high degree of in-house manufacturing.

A Compact and Elegant Case

The Tefnut 36 anniversary edition features a polished stainless steel case measuring 36mm in diameter and a slim 8.5mm in height. Its gently tapered lugs and large, flat winding crown enhance both comfort and ease of use, embodying the line's understated elegance.

The Art of Silver-Plating by Friction

The dial is a masterpiece of traditional craftsmanship. The process begins with engraving Roman numerals into a brass base, which are then filled with turquoise lacquer and fired. The original 1875 logo, railway minute track, and 'Made in Germany' are treated with black lacquer. Next, a paste of pure silver powder, salt, cream of tartar, and water is hand-rubbed onto the surface, creating a velvety, matte texture. After polishing, a thin lacquer coat protects the silver from tarnishing. The hands, made in-house, are ground with diamond files and heat-blued over an open flame, with polished chamfers achieved using a wooden disc.

In-House Calibre 102.1

The reverse reveals the manually wound calibre 102.1, a slim 3.5mm movement. It features a German silver 3/5 plate with Glashütte ribbing, a hand-engraved balance cock with a floral motif and '1826' engraving, and a polished Grossmann micrometre screw. White sapphires set in gold chatons replace synthetic rubies, and steel screws are heat-annealed to a violet-brown hue. The movement beats at 21,600vph with a 48-hour power reserve.

Limited Edition and Pricing

The watch comes on a bluish-grey kudu leather strap with a steel prong buckle. It is limited to 12 pieces, priced at EUR 29,000 excluding VAT. For those seeking a rare, handcrafted timepiece with a rich heritage, this Tefnut 36 is a compelling choice.

When considering a replica, be aware that authentic Moritz Grossmann watches feature exceptional finishing and unique details like the micrometre screw and hand-engraved balance cock, which are difficult to replicate faithfully.