Swatch Group Eases Restrictions, Longines HydroConquest Finally Gets Its Due

A New Era for Longines Under Swatch Group

For years, watch enthusiasts have watched Longines operate with one hand tied behind its back. The Swatch Group, which owns both Longines and its more prestigious sibling Omega, has historically kept Longines' product lineup deliberately underwhelming to avoid cannibalizing Omega's sales. However, recent developments suggest this era of restraint is finally coming to an end.

According to the latest industry analysis from Morgan Stanley's Swiss Watcher Report, Omega experienced a notable decline in sales revenue from 2025 to 2026. This downturn has prompted Swatch Group's CEO, Nick Hayek Jr., to take decisive action, including considering legal action against the report's authors. More importantly, it has forced the conglomerate to reevaluate its strategy for its second-largest revenue generator: Longines.

The HydroConquest: A Dive Watch That Delivers

The newly redesigned HydroConquest is Longines' boldest move in recent memory. Available in 39mm and 42mm case sizes, both measuring a slim 11.7mm in thickness, this dive watch comes in a variety of vibrant colorways. Key features include a ceramic dive bezel insert, a robust 300-meter water resistance rating, and an impressive 72-hour power reserve. The watch is powered by an ETA-derived movement, which, while not in-house or chronometer-certified, offers reliable performance at a significantly lower price point.

Pricing starts at a highly competitive ,200 on a stainless steel Oyster-style bracelet, or ,400 for the Milanese mesh option. This aggressive pricing directly challenges other Swiss brands like Tudor, IWC, Breitling, and TAG Heuer, whose prices have been climbing steadily. It also puts pressure on the microbrand market, many of which sell dive watches for over ,000 without the heritage or support that Longines brings.

Design and Criticisms

While the HydroConquest has been widely praised for its value proposition, it is not without its detractors. Some critics have pointed out the round indices at the 6 and 9 o'clock positions as a design misstep, a sentiment we share. Additionally, the handset and crown design could benefit from further refinement. Despite these minor flaws, the overall aesthetic is undeniably appealing, drawing inspiration from iconic dive watches like the Black Bay, Aquaracer, Seamaster, and Submariner, but at a fraction of the cost.

Strategic Implications for Swatch Group

By allowing Longines to 'take the reins,' Swatch Group is making a calculated move to capture a demographic that has largely been left to microbrands in recent years. As Swiss watch export volumes decline and consumer confidence wavers, the group is recognizing the need to offer compelling products at more accessible price points.

This shift signals a departure from the previous strategy of crippling Longines' offerings to protect Omega. With Omega now positioned in a completely different price bracket, there is little overlap, enabling Longines to finally create watches that consumers genuinely desire. The HydroConquest is a testament to this new philosophy, offering a well-designed, feature-rich dive watch that respects the buyer's intelligence and budget.

Final Thoughts

As summer approaches, Longines has not just launched a new product; it has made a statement. The HydroConquest is a carefully considered response to market demands, delivered at a time when inflation is high and consumer confidence is low. By undercutting established rivals and offering a compelling alternative to microbrands, Longines is signaling that it is ready to compete at an entirely new level. Yes, Swatch is finally letting Longines ball out.

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