Fears Brunswick 39 Perpetual Calendar: A British Masterpiece of Complicated Watchmaking

Fears Marks a Decade of Revival with a Grand Complication

In the world of independent watchmaking, few stories are as heartwarming as the resurrection of Fears. Originally founded in 1846 by Edwin Fear in Bristol, the company operated for 130 years before closing in 1976. In 2016, his great-great-great-grandson Nicholas Bowman-Scargill brought the brand back to life. For the past nine years, Fears has focused on elegant, often minimalist timepieces, but now, to celebrate the 10th anniversary of its return, the British maison is stepping into the realm of haute horlogerie with the Brunswick 39 Perpetual Calendar.

A Case That Honors Tradition and Modernity

The Brunswick collection, named after Brunswick Square in Bristol where the company's export warehouse stood from 1920 to 1942, is instantly recognizable by its cushion-shaped case. The new perpetual calendar retains this iconic silhouette but introduces a refined execution. Measuring a comfortable 39mm in diameter with a compact 45.4mm lug-to-lug, the case sits elegantly on the wrist. At just 9.4mm thick, it is the thinnest model in the collection, a feat made possible by the efficient movement inside.

The case is crafted from stainless steel, with a mix of brushed and polished surfaces. The bezel and open case back feature a concave profile, adding a subtle sophistication. The onion-shaped crown is a nod to vintage style, while the flank-mounted correctors hint at the complexity within. With a water resistance of 50 meters, it is practical enough for everyday wear despite its dressy character.

A Dial of Silver Mink and Celestial Beauty

The dial of the Brunswick 39 Perpetual Calendar is a study in understated luxury. Its "Silver Mink" tone is achieved through a frosted surface coated in pure silver, giving it a soft, luminous sheen. The large calendar sub-dials feature circular grooves and a bespoke set of curved numerals and letters, designed in-house to follow the sub-dial's arc. The hour indices are hand-applied, quad-bevelled, and diamond-polished, then coated in black gold to match the tri-bevelled hands.

The moon phase display is a work of art in itself. A black lacquer disc is inset with two silver moons, each hand-finished using a technique called Charbonage, which gives them a unique texture. The perpetual calendar displays date, weekday, month, and leap year, all arranged in a classic layout that is both legible and aesthetically pleasing.

Inside the Movement: A Marriage of Swiss Precision and British Finish

Powering this timepiece is a Sellita SW300 base movement, a well-regarded automatic caliber, which has been enhanced with a Dubois Dépraz perpetual calendar module. This combination provides the watch with a 47-hour power reserve and a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. The movement is hand-finished with frosted bridges and plates, polished bevels, and a dark rhodium finish, reflecting the brand's commitment to quality. The custom 18k gold rotor adds a touch of opulence and ensures efficient winding.

An Eminence Collection Addition with a Custom Touch

The Brunswick 39 Perpetual Calendar joins the Fears Garrick in the new Eminence Collection, a line dedicated to high-end complications. It comes on a walnut brown ostrich leg strap with a Fears Blue Alcantara lining, adding a sporty yet refined touch. A custom Fears watch winder in blue aluminium is included with the watch, ensuring it stays wound when not on the wrist.

This is a non-limited numbered edition, but for those seeking exclusivity, the Fears Custom Division offers bespoke versions in platinum, available by consultation. The watch is priced at GBP 26,950 (incl. tax) for the domestic market, CHF 24,500 (excl. tax) for Switzerland, and USD 28,500 (excl. tax) for export.

Buying Tips and Authenticity Notes

When considering a high-complication timepiece like the Fears Brunswick 39 Perpetual Calendar, it's essential to purchase from authorized dealers or directly from the brand to ensure authenticity. Given the complexity of the perpetual calendar, servicing should be performed by qualified watchmakers familiar with Dubois Dépraz modules. The included winder is a thoughtful addition, but ensure it is set correctly to avoid over-winding.

For collectors, this watch represents a significant milestone in Fears' modern history, making it a worthy investment for those who appreciate British heritage and fine watchmaking.