Tiffany Timer Chronograph: Titanium & Platinum Edition

Introduction

Tiffany & Co., renowned for its iconic blue boxes and high-end jewelry, has a deeper horological history than many realize. The New York-based maison introduced its first chronograph—a pocket watch—back in 1866. To celebrate the 160th anniversary of that milestone, Tiffany released a bold limited edition of the Timer chronograph earlier this year, featuring a platinum case, a Tiffany Blue dial with diamond markers, and a customized El Primero movement. Now, the Tiffany Timer returns in a more classic and wearable form, pairing titanium with platinum and a deep navy blue dial.

A Legacy of Watchmaking

Since being acquired by LVMH, Tiffany has intensified its watchmaking efforts under the leadership of Nicolas Beau, former Global Head of Horlogerie at Chanel. The brand has drawn on a rich horological past while infusing its jewelry expertise into distinctive timepieces. The Tiffany Timer stands out as a sporty chronograph with a high-frequency automatic movement, a departure from the brand's typically gem-set dress watches.

Design and Materials

The new Tiffany Timer Chronograph retains the same 40mm case design but introduces a bi-material construction. The case is crafted from satin-brushed grade 5 titanium, offering a lighter and more comfortable wear, while the bezel is polished 950 platinum, adding a touch of elegance. The crown is shaped like the six-pronged Tiffany solitaire ring setting, and the elongated, curved chronograph pushers act as crown guards. Thin, curved lugs enhance the watch's refined profile. With a thickness of 13.05mm and water resistance of 100 meters, it is a practical sport chronograph.

Dial and Accents

The dial features a sunray-brushed navy blue base, a more restrained look compared to the previous Tiffany Blue version. The brand's signature color appears as accents on the sub-dial rings, the outer chronograph seconds track, and the date disc. Applied hour markers and hands are crafted from white gold, ensuring a classic and legible appearance.

Movement: Customized El Primero

Inside, the watch is powered by a customized Zenith El Primero 400 automatic movement. This iconic high-frequency chronograph caliber operates at 5Hz (36,000 vibrations per hour), offering a column wheel and horizontal clutch architecture. It provides a 50-hour power reserve and includes a small seconds sub-dial, a 12-hour counter, a 30-minute counter, and a date function. The oscillating weight features a hand-sculpted 18k yellow gold 'bird on a rock,' a nod to Jean Schlumberger's iconic design from the 1960s.

Specifications and Availability

Case: 40mm diameter x 13.05mm thickness, grade 5 titanium with polished 950 platinum bezel, domed sapphire crystal with AR coating, sapphire caseback, 100m water resistance
Dial: Sunray-brushed dark blue with Tiffany Blue accents, applied white gold markers and hands
Movement: Customized Zenith El Primero 400, automatic, 36,000vph, 50h power reserve
Strap: Navy blue alligator with triple folding clasp in steel and titanium
Reference: 76538182
Limited Edition: 100 pieces
Price: USD 28,000

Buying Tips

For collectors interested in this limited edition, it's essential to verify authenticity through authorized Tiffany retailers. The combination of titanium and platinum is unusual, and the customized El Primero movement with the gold 'bird on a rock' rotor is a distinctive feature. Given the limited production, this model is likely to appreciate in value. When purchasing, ensure all documentation and packaging are included.