Inside Breguet: A Manufacture Tour That Changed Perceptions

A Journey into Breguet's Heart

There are moments in a watch journalist's career that redefine a brand's image. Our recent visit to the Breguet manufacture was one such moment. It began with a confession: years ago, we had publicly criticized Breguet's direction, suggesting it was too reverent, too stagnant. Little did we know that our words would reach the very CEO we were addressing.

The Engine-Turning Atelier: A Living Museum

The first stop on this transformative tour was the engine-turning atelier. We had requested to see historical machines in active use, and what we found exceeded expectations. Over 30 rose engines, the largest collection in the world, stood as a testament to Breguet's dedication to tradition. The oldest, dating back to 1928, was still operational, operated entirely by hand. The room, devoid of modern machinery, resonated with the quiet focus of artisans at work. We were even invited to try one, and to our surprise, we managed a passable performance, ranking among the top visitors of the year.

Hand Finishing: The Art of Patience

Our attempt at hand finishing was less successful, but observing a master craftsman bevel a mainplate was an education in itself. The process, involving progressively finer abrasives and ending with diamond paste, produces a black-polished angle visible only under a microscope. Every single watch from Breguet undergoes this meticulous treatment. It was a humbling reminder of the level of detail that defines haute horlogerie.

Communication: A CEO's Honest Reflection

The most revealing conversation was with CEO Gregory Kissling. When we showed him our earlier critique, he didn't shy away. He acknowledged the communication gap and outlined the brand's efforts to bridge it, including the 250th anniversary tour and the deployment of artisans to demonstrate their craft. His words, "we didn't change anything, but we changed everything," took on new meaning as we witnessed the blend of tradition and innovation in the new releases.

New Horizons: The 7725 and Beyond

The tour also showcased the latest creations, including the 7725 with its magnetic pivot technology and the reissued tourbillon celebrating 225 years since its patent. But the piece that captured our imagination was a new model with a fumé enamel dial, transitioning from black to a deep mossy green, a true masterpiece that will linger in our memory.

As we left, Kissling's quiet assertion, "Breguet is back," resonated with us. This tour revealed a brand that has always been true to its heritage, and is now learning to share that story with the world. Our initial criticisms were, in part, misplaced. The evidence was clear: Breguet is not stagnant; it is a living legend, evolving while honoring its past.